'They're stealing our customers and we've had enough': is Deliveroo killing restaurant culture?

Shukran Best Kebab – the finest Turkish restaurant in the Seven Sisters area of north London, according to some people (although it is surrounded by fierce rivals to the throne) – joined Deliveroo two years ago, and back then it seemed like a no-brainer. "Life as a small, independent restaurant is hard and the profit margins are slim," says Hüseyin Kurt, Shukran's owner. "We wanted more customers and money coming in and Deliveroo seemed to offer that. I didn't think there was a downside." Within a few days of signing a contract with the company, a shiny new tablet computer arrived on which orders placed via Deliveroo appeared out of the ether with a satisfying ping. The sense that something was wrong dawned gradually. Kurt, a gregarious, bearded man in his early 40s, who left his central Anatolian home town in 1995 and used his love of food to build a new life in the UK, ran the numbers: with Deliveroo's commission amounting to 35% plus VAT on every order, he was forced to increase his prices to avoid losing money on each sale.